What comes to your mind when you see a photo in black-and-white tone? Do you think it’s too archaic to think of? Well, think again! Black-and-white photography has started attracting many natty photographers from around the world. And here are the two solid reasons why many people still prefer monotones to full saturated colours:

1. A photo in black-and-white tone allows you to focus on lights, shadows, textures and lines, which are obviously difficult to discern in case of a full coloured tone!

2. Black-and-white tones are evocative to cheerful memories of the past.  For example – A wedding photograph in black-and-white tone will be more poignant to look at, than just a plain coloured one.

Well, this post is not to teach on how to shoot in black-and-white, instead, how to convert a coloured photograph into black-and-white tone in Photoshop!

It’s always a better choice to convert your coloured photos into black-and-white using post-processing techniques, than to directly shoot in black-and-white at the first place. There’s a good reason for that – A photo shot in black-and-white tone is very difficult and time consuming to colourize using Photoshop and, on the other-hand, a coloured photo can be very easily converted into a black-and-white one! So, in this way you have an option to preserve both the tones :)

How To Convert A Coloured Photo Into Black-And-White In Photoshop?

Before you start the conversion process, please note that - not just every photo looks great in b/w tone. You have to identify the types of photos first…

Here are some of the photo themes that look wonderful in b/w tone:

Child Photography,  Wedding Photography,  Portrait Photography and Wildlife Photography (For rest, you can always experiment)

Step1. Open up your image in Photoshop and navigate to Image –> Adjustments –> Black & White (70% of the task is completed here itself!). A pop-up window will appear soon after that. You don’t have to change any colour value there. Just click OK!

Step 2. Navigate to Image –> Adjustments –> Levels.

Tweaking with levels gives you a wide range of control over the shadows and lights of your black-and-white image. Tweaking the ‘input levels’ make your shadow areas more darker and the light areas more lighter while tweaking the ‘output levels’ does the opposite. So, adjust the sliders a little bit in accordance to your editing taste and till you get the desired results!

If the photo gets a little bit over-exposed, move the lighter slider in the ‘output levels’ a little bit to the left and if it gets under-exposed, move the shadow slider in the ‘output levels’ a little bit to the right.

Here are the slider values for the photo that I’m converting (that’s just for an example, your slider values might completely differ in accordance with the tone of your photo)

After all that, just click OK! and save your photo. Here are my results…

Can you feel the magic of the above monotone? While the coloured one appeared just plain and distractible, the converted one brings the main subject into focus. The tone is calm and soothing to the eyes!

So what’s your preferred tone? Coloured OR Monotone. I look forward to hear your thoughts in the comments below :)

Though we have covered almost all the basics of digital photography on DCP, but i believe that recapitulating all the important terms together will be a treat, especially for those who have just started out with photography either as a hobby or as a career.

1. Aperture

Aperture is the opening of your camera. Thus, It is the aperture only which decides the amount of light that can pass through your camera lens. Obviously,  the larger it is, the more light can pass through your camera lens and the smaller it is, the less light can pass through the lens. Controlling the aperture size of your camera is directly related to f-stop values (please refer term #6)

Usage - Its usage comes handy when shooting under varying light conditions. For example - while shooting under bright light, as when shooting under a full blown sunshine, a lower value of aperture OR a higher f-stop value is usually preferred.

2. Shutter Speed

It's the measure of how fast or slow your camera snaps the subject. Technically speaking, It's the measure of the time for which the camera lens is let open to snap the subject. Quite obviously, shutter speed is measured in seconds. It can be 500th of a second, 20th of a second, 10 seconds or even 25 seconds (it all depends upon your camera)

Usage - Shutter Speed is mostly used to simulate the motion of an object. For example - if you would like to simulate the motion of a fast moving train in your picture, you should reduce the shutter speed. Likewise, to freeze the motion of an object, you will have to increase the shutter speed. It's no more a secret, doing long exposures is actually based upon the concept of controlling shutter speed.

3. ISO

It is the measure of how sensitive your camera is towards light. For point-and-shoot cameras, ISO is the key element that controls the shutter speed since you don’t have any access to modify the f-stop values there. That’s probably the biggest limitation of having a point-and-shoot! Learn more about aperture, shutter speed and ISO here.

4. Depth of Field

It's an art of simulating the selective focus of your eyes to your digital camera. Do this little fun experiment - close one of your eyes and try to focus on your finger by bringing it closer to the other eye. You will find that your finger is focused against a soft or blurry background. This is called natural depth of field and you can very easily simulate this natural optical phenomena with your digital camera! Learn more about depth of field in detail here…

This is a shot i took with my camera last year and it is a perfect example of shallow depth of field:

5. Rule of Thirds

Or the rule of composition. According to this rule, if you want to achieve perfect composition in your photos, then you have to divide your frame into 9 imaginary equal squares (two equally spaced parallel lines running horizontally and two vertically). Then place your subject on either of these lines or on any point of intersection (obviously by moving your camera)…This video explains it very well ;)

6. f-stop

This is perhaps the most confusing term in the world of photography. I will keep it as simple as possible -The f-stop number inversely controls the aperture size (the opening) of your digital camera. The higher the f-stop number is, the smaller is the aperture size of your camera and vice-versa. Thus, it indirectly controls the amount of light and depth of field of your camera (refer term #4)

7. Exposure

Casually speaking, Exposure is the amount of light being superimposed on your camera’s sensor while it snaps a picture. High exposures make them look washed out while low exposures make them look dark.
It has a direct relationship with the aperture and shutter speed of your camera as both of them control the amount of light entering the sensor of your camera.

8. Bracketing

Bracketing is the art of capturing 3 or more than 3 photos (of the same subject) with varying levels of exposure (usually low, neutral and high). This is usually done to merge all those photographs into a single vivid HDR using post-processing techniques.

Did i miss something OR is something still not clear? Feel free to comment on this post below…

As a digital photographer, on occasion you might need a hardcopy of your images. Printing your work is an alternative way to share your passion with a hardcopy that you and others can hold and feel, and that deserves more attention and it’s often perceived as ‘special’.

 

With so many options and considerations to take into account, selecting the most suitable printing media is sometimes a confusing one. So in this post, our guest author Joseph Eitan walks you through four important tips to simplify the whole process!

 

1. Narrow Down The Type Of Paper

Printers use either laser or Inkjet technology to disperse the ink on the paper. In the case of Inkjet technology the ink is sprayed microscopically onto the paper and in the case of Laser technology powder is laid loose on the paper and must go through a hot fusing process in order to become permanent.

Photo paper that is designed for one technology should not be used on the other, as it will damage it. The vast majority of photographers use Inkjet as their preferred printer type, as Inkjet can print in higher DPI (Dots Per Inch) resulting in colours, especially skin tones and solid colours appearing accurately.

 

2. Size Of Photo Paper

Photo papers are available in predefined sizes designed to accommodate a number of printing needs. A common mistake is purchasing the wrong size resulting in further printing costs of ink and paper due to reprinting. While it is possible to cut to size a measurement which is too big, it will result in wasted time and unnecessary costs. Naturally the same base paper in its larger measurement will cost more than in its smaller measurement. If the print is too small for your needs, there is no other option but to reprint. Sizes vary from the smallest 10x15cm to the largest A3 oversized before you enter the world of large format media.

10cm x 15cm – These are the smallest photo paper sizes that most printers can safely accommodate. This measurement is aimed at standard photo albums. You may also come across it as 6”x4”.

13cm x 18cm – Slightly biggest, they too are designed to fit into standard photo albums. You may also come across it as 7”x5”.

A5 and A4 – Standard A4 sheet is precisely double the size of an A5 sheet. These measurements will be supported by all Inkjet photo printers and designed for photo frames (desk or hanged on the wall).

A3 and Oversized A3 - Standard A3 sheet is precisely double the size of an A4 sheet. It is reserved for the professional world, as it requires an A3 printer.

3. Photo Paper Quality

Quality in photo papers refers to two aspects. The first is the durability of the print before it fades or in low quality case becomes yellowish. The second is the tones and colour representation from what your digital camera captured to the printed result.

Two means to measure the quality of the base paper that is used and the weight of the paper:

Base Paper – Photo papers contain a receiving layer designed to hold the ink without soaking the paper which results in cockling (waves on the paper caused by over inking, which happens when printing an image on normal bond paper). The type of receiving layer will influence the colour palette of the print. Budget and lower quality photo papers use cast coating, while higher quality use PE coating and Micro-porous coating. PE coating will result in higher definition due better stability and humidity resistance.

Paper Weight - Weight is measured in GSM (grams per square meter) and refers to product per unit of area or product density. The higher the weight is, the better the printed result will look in terms of actual colour representation. Bond paper, which is your normal uncoated printer paper, will normally weigh between 80 to 90 grams per square meter, while photo paper can even exceed 300 grams per square meter.

 

4. Photo Paper Finish

Once you have decided on the most suitable size and quality for your circumstances, you need to choose the finish. Photo papers are coated in a translucent layer designed to enhance its appearance. It is measured in level of glossiness from high to low.

Glossy Finish – The most common finish, glossy finish contains the highest level of glare. While it makes viewing from a direct angle superb, viewing from an angle might prove limited. It becomes apparent when photos are hanging for display and people crowd around the photos from all sides.

Satin Finish – It includes some level of glare, but naturally less than glossy. You may come across satin under its aliases of pearl and Lustre in which levels of glare will vary.

Matt Finish – While glossy and satin contain some level of glare, matt is the only finish that is completely absent of any glare properties.

So, how are you planning to get your digital photos printed? Still in some doubt? Drop your comments, we would love to hear from you!

Almost every new mother gets a flood of coupons and offers from baby-minded companies, including studio portrait photographers. But, while coupons for diapers and formula can save you money on things you need, a discounted studio portrait still counts as a luxury expense in many family budgets.

There is a way to obtain the quality of a studio portrait and, even better, preserve the spontaneity of at-home photographs for a fraction of the cost of professional photographs. But, if you're aiming for photographs good enough to print on canvas and frame in wood, it helps to follow the practices of professionals.

Professionals know that it's a lot less expensive to take a great photo than to retouch an imperfect one. With that in mind, here are some easy tips for creating studio-quality photos with your own digital camera.

 

1. Shoot In Adequate Light

“Let there be (enough) light” is the golden rule of good photography – or at least it should be. Too many great memories are shrouded in darkness because the photographer didn’t check if there was adequate lighting, or set the wrong flash duration, or simply didn’t use a flash at all. Professionals often play with light and darkness to create visually unique images, but for most people, the rule is simple – if it’s too dark, use a flash. “How dark is dark” might be a matter of how you want the final image to look, but if there are people in it and you can’t see them clearly (and you want to), that means you didn’t use the flash properly. So, this should be the first aspect to watch out for.

 

2. Avoid Camera Shakes

While lighting, colour and many aspects can be altered and enhanced using software applications, a blurred photo is very hard to rectify. Most high-end DSLR camera lenses today have image stabilization (IS) technology or Vibration Reduction (VR) built in, but these can cost you an arm and a leg to acquire. Here are some tips to prevent those shakes when it’s shutter time: 

a) Use a tripod - This might sound obvious but it’s surprising how many people avoid a tripod like the plague because of the inconvenience of setting it up; besides, who wants to hassle with a tripod when that beautiful moment might be gone soon.

b) Cradle the camera like you would a baby – the shaking is considerably less when you do this.

c) Third tip is to use what is known as a machine-gun hold; if you’re right-handed that means you use the crook of your left arm to support the camera.

d) Last tip – stop breathing; as in, at the moment of clicking the shutter, not for the duration of the shoot!

3. Use A Variety Of Lenses

Most point-and-shoot cameras provide some lens flexibility - you can zoom in and out. But, in many ways, a camera is only as good as its lenses. So don't spend all of your budget on a camera. Invest in three lenses a professional photographer usually depends upon: zoom, wide angle and telephoto.

a) A zoom lens - lets you get extreme close-ups without being on top of your subject. You could capture your child's smile, for example, from across the room. (Your child's smile might not be so natural if you shove a camera in his face.)

b) A wide angle lens - does a lot more than help you include everyone in a group shot without backing up over a cliff! It can help you create interesting angles, making your focal point appear closer and larger and the background smaller and more distant. Let's say you are taking a picture of your family on a mountaintop. With a regular lens, both your family and the surrounding mountains look far away. A wide-angle lens allows you to get closer to your family without losing the background.

c) A telephoto lens -

It lets you spy on your family - in a good way. You can get "close-up" shots of your daughter on a swing while standing on the edge of a playground or capture your son's touchdown while watching the game from the stands.

 

4. Go For The Highest Resolution

This is probably the most critical aspect of all because if your photo isn’t high-res enough, then you’ll end up with a grainy print full of nothing but coloured pixels, at best – at worst, people will have to constantly keep stepping back to see what the photo actually looks like, especially if it’s a very large print like a 24 x 72”. If you’ve already got a great photo you want to put on canvas but not high-res enough, then you can interpolate it with software – not the best option but it should do the job well enough.

Do these things and your canvas prints will come out looking like a million bucks. More often than not, people will ask you how you took such great photos. Just tell them you studied for years under the best photographers. It’ll be our little secret!

Christmas is one of the most memorable celebrations of the year. Unfortunately, the merry event only comes once every 12 months. If you want to relive the occasion at any given time and day of the year, you might want to capture the moment by taking a snapshot. However, don’t just point and shoot when you get the chance. The best pictures are captured by considering a number of elements.

Many owners of digital or SLR cameras are guilty of using a photo editor to alter an image’s quality or resolution. When you know how to properly use a camera at any environment, you no longer have to play with the tone, contrast and colour just to get that perfect picture. Just by simply tweaking your camera’s setting and taking advantage of the natural surrounding can be the answer.

1. Lighting

Lighting can affect the overall quality of your picture as it can create the mood and depth of the image. For instance, when you want to establish a homey and dreamy atmosphere, you can just simply dim the lights. On the other hand, direct and bright light can create a more dramatic vibe as more shadows are produced.

2. Avoiding Glares

If you are going to celebrate Christmas outdoors, you don’t have to use flash as natural light is good enough to emphasise your subject. However, you should still consider the brightness of the sun. Too little light will make your subject illuminate too much while too much can lead to glares. Mid-morning and late afternoon tend to be best for outdoor photography. Alternatively, indoor parties should be used with lots of lighting. When using flash, make sure that you are about 5m away from the subject.

3. Composition And Angle

You don’t always have to take a wide angle picture. As long as you apply the rule of thirds, placing your subject on the intersecting lines of the equally divided three sections of the frame, you can play with the angle of your subject. To do this, you can just switch on the grid on your camera’s setting.

4. Use A Tripod

Hand held shots can result to a wobbly picture but when you use a camera tripod, you get a balance image, giving you a sharper and crispier picture of your subject. You can also be included in group photos such as family portraits as you can just simply mount your camera, adjust the settings and set the timer.

5. Adjust Your Camera’s White Balance

White balance is an important aspect of photography that unfortunately not all camera owners know the importance of. When you take a picture indoors, you will notice your picture comes out with a different colour. Adjusting your camera’s white balance can make the colour better and accordingly to your subject.

6. Take Pictures Until You Are Contented

Take many pictures as many as you can. It’s easier to choose the best image among three or more shots rather than having only one version.

7. Christmas Lights and Ornaments

Unwrapping gifts and Christmas dinner aren’t the only things you need to take a picture of. You should also snap a photo of holiday decorations such as the Christmas tree and lights and other ornaments. For best results, photograph Christmas lights during dusk or at night so the colours can pop out.

8. Close-Ups

You don’t always have to use a wide angle for portrait photography or Christmas embellishments. You can capture a person’s emotion by opting for a close up. As for the ornaments, details are more prominent and thus, a better quality of the image.

9. Set Your Camera’s Shutter Speed

You can prevent blurred photos by setting your camera’s shutter speed. You don’t have to ask the subject of your picture to stay still as it can focus on your subject as they move.

10. Check The Background

To add a more holiday vibe, consider the background of your subject. Remember distractions shouldn’t be included in your picture’s frame as it can greatly affect the feel of the image.

So you are now well prepared in advance to make the upcoming Christmas festival a truly memorable one! Follow these 10 awesome tips and celebrate a revived and fun-filled Christmas this month ;) All the best!